The crank arm should bow slightly, approx. a half inch. There should be approx. 40 to 60 lbs of pressure on the arm when placed into the retainer. The tarp will stretch when it tightens under the latchplate. When the tarp touches the end caps, there should be a good seal and no flapping should occur.

Keep the proper tension applied and check that it does not flutter in the wind. Use of Tarp Saver Cords is a must in heavy winds.

22 oz material is 25% stronger than 18 oz and worth the upgrade if you use the tarp frequently. Proper tension must be maintained. 22 oz material does roll harder in winter cold temps, particularly on longer trailers.

While we do have UV inhibitors built into our tarps, all vinyl material will eventually fade over time.

Box Style and application will determine this.

Aluminum end caps

Commonly used on square boxes.
Will not rust.

Galvanized end caps

Commonly used on square boxes.
More economical than aluminum.
However they will rust.

Fabric end caps

Commonly used on end dumps, dump bodies and grain carts.
They are water tight.
They absorb a wide range of box flew.
Economical.
Easy to repair.

First check that you have the correct length tarp. Aluminum end caps should be three inches from each end, Galvanized end caps should be two inches from each end. With fabric end caps, the tarp should have a nine inch overlap on each end and the tarp should go over the first bow, then under the cap and attach to the box.

Make sure you use a ridge support and that it is installed over the top of the bows.

Check that you have enough tension applied to the tarp in the latched position. The crank arm should bow slightly, approx. a half inch. The Tarp will stretch when it tightens under the latchplaye. When the tarp touches the end caps, there should be good seal and no flapping should occur. One bow could be setting higher than the others, adjust the bow, this will cause the tarp to wear more quickly.

11-1/2 feet for most applications. 16-1/2 feet for X-wide application.